Skip to main content
Sioux Falls Radon Service

Quick answers, longer reads

These are the questions that come up most, answered in a paragraph each. When a one-paragraph answer isn’t enough, the longer material is a click away — what mitigation involves covers the fix itself, and the high-result guide walks through what to do with a bad number. Anything not covered here, ask through the contact page.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is radon really a problem around Sioux Falls?

More than in most of the country. The EPA puts all of eastern South Dakota — Minnehaha and Lincoln counties included — in Zone 1, its highest radon-potential category, and tallies of state test results routinely find half or more at or above the action level. The only way to know about your house is to test it.

What is radon, in plain terms?

A radioactive gas that forms naturally as uranium breaks down in soil and rock, then seeps up into buildings through their foundations. It has no color, smell, or taste, and public-health agencies including the EPA tie long-term exposure to lung cancer. It's a known problem with a well-understood fix.

What radon level requires action?

4 picocuries per liter (pCi/L) is the EPA action level — at or above it, guidance says fix the home. Between 2 and 4, the EPA suggests considering mitigation. A test tells you where your home sits on that scale.

What does a mitigation system involve?

A suction point under the foundation, a pipe run up through the house or along an exterior wall, a fan that runs continuously, and a gauge showing the system is pulling. Soil gas gets collected below the home and vented above the roofline. The details of [what mitigation involves](/services/radon-mitigation/) depend on the foundation, which the assessment works out.

Does mitigation actually work?

Reliably — it's mature, well-established work. Systems are designed to bring homes below the action level, and a post-installation test verifies the result rather than taking anyone's word for it. That retest is the honest form of a guarantee.

Do I need to retest after mitigation?

Yes. The post-installation test verifies the level came down, and retesting every couple of years afterward is standard practice. The gauge only shows the fan is pulling — a test is what measures the actual number.

How long does installation take?

Most residential installs are short jobs once the design is set, but the honest answer depends on the house. Foundation type, layout, and pipe routing drive the scope. What's involved gets confirmed at the assessment, not guessed from a website.

Where will the pipe and fan go?

Wherever the house says. Some systems run up through a garage or utility chase into the attic, others up an exterior wall, and the fan sits in the attic or outside — never in living space. The options get walked through before anything is drilled.

My test came back high — should I retest before doing anything?

If the number is near the action level and there's no deadline, confirming with a second or long-term test is reasonable, since levels swing with season and weather. A monitored transaction test, or a number well above 4, is usually clear enough to act on. [The high-result guide](/resources/radon-test-came-back-high/) walks through that call.

Radon came up in my home purchase — now what?

It's one of the most routinely resolved findings in a home sale. Testing and mitigation can be coordinated around the closing, with a verification retest documented for the file. Starting promptly is what keeps the deadline comfortable.

Who pays for mitigation in a home sale?

It's negotiated, like any inspection finding. Sellers often handle a confirmed high result to keep the sale moving, buyers sometimes take a credit and schedule the work themselves, and agents settle it through the standard repair-request process. No South Dakota rule assigns the cost.

How long do radon fans last?

On the order of a decade, in industry experience — they run around the clock, so the hours add up quietly. The gauge is usually how owners find out a fan has stopped. Replacement is routine, much smaller work than the original install.

What does the u-tube gauge on my system mean?

It shows whether the fan is pulling. Unequal fluid levels mean the system has suction and is working; level fluid means it isn't, and the system needs attention. It does not measure the radon level itself.

Can I just use a store-bought test kit?

For a first screen, yes — kits are legitimate when the instructions are followed carefully. Home sales and pre-mitigation confirmation typically use professional testing or continuous monitors instead. An elevated kit result is worth confirming before you spend money on it.

Can't I just seal the cracks or open windows?

Not reliably. EPA guidance is plain that sealing alone doesn't hold levels down, and open windows only change the number while they're open — a rough strategy in a South Dakota January. Sealing helps as part of an active system, not as a substitute for one.

Does a radon system affect my home's resale?

In a high-radon market like this one, usually as a plus. A system with a documented retest means the question is already answered for the next buyer. South Dakota's seller disclosure form covers known radon conditions and testing, so a solved, papered problem reads better than an unknown.

Does the state publish radon numbers for my town?

Not at town level — South Dakota's radon program publishes county-grain information, so there's no dataset for Brandon, Tea, or Harrisburg specifically. The program also periodically offers residents a limited number of free test kits, which is a fine way to get a first number.

Why did my winter test read higher than my summer one?

Winter stacks the deck. A closed-up house with the furnace running develops gentle suction at the foundation, which pulls in more soil gas — so cold-season readings often run higher and are considered closer to the home's honest worst case. It's part of why near-the-line results get confirmed rather than averaged away.

Do newer homes around the metro come with radon systems?

Some come with half of one — a passive rough-in, meaning a capped vent pipe the builder ran through the framing, common in subdivisions built over the last two decades. It's not a working system until a fan is added, and homes with rough-ins still test high. If yours does, activation is usually the quickest fix available.

Contact

Let's get started.

Request an estimate